Hear about travel to Cairo, Egypt, as the Amateur Traveler talks to Neil Laird, TV producer and the author of the Prime Time Travelers Series, about his favorite city.
Why should you go to Cairo?
Neil says, “I’ve traveled to some 70 countries and I’ve been an international documentary TV producer for 30 years. But anytime people ask me what is my happy place, what is the place that set me all off on this journey, it is Egypt. I’ve been enamored and fascinated by the ancient Egyptians and by the culture there for 30, 35 years, and Cairo is the gateway to that. I spent a lot of time on Luxor shooting films for National Geographic, Discovery Channel, and the BBC. But Cairo is often overlooked because it’s the noisy, chaotic city that you fly into and see the pyramids before you go see Luxor and the great ruins. And that’s a shame because Cairo is a universe in itself.”
Here’s the 7-day Cairo itinerary recommended by Neil:
Day 1 – Zamalek (Gezira Island)
- Stay in Zamalek, the leafy island in the Nile – quieter, easier to acclimate.
- Options:
- Airbnb or boutique stays like Houseboat 65 or Villa Bella.
- Big hotels (Marriott, St. Regis) for luxury.
- Explore:
- Coffee shops, art galleries, crafts (Fair Trade for Handicrafts, Nomad Gallery).
- Dinner & show at Five Bells – good Middle Eastern food and respected belly dancing.
- The best bars and cocktail lounges are here, instead of more conservative areas
Day 2 – Giza Pyramids & Sphinx
- Spend a full day:
- Visit the Great Pyramid of Khufu and at least one other (each unique, sometimes claustrophobic).
- Explore the Sphinx and the valley temples.
- See the 4,500-year-old solar boat in its enclosure.
- Practical tips:
- Go early in the morning to beat crowds.
- Avoid the cheesy “Sound & Light Show.”
- Guides available through hotels (avoid touts).
- Haggle hard for any souvenirs you might buy
Day 3 – Downtown Cairo
- Visit Tahrir Square (epicenter of modern politics, Arab Spring).
- Coffee at historic Café Riche (20th-century haunt of writer Naguib Mahfouz).
- Browse the American University in Cairo bookstore for Egyptology books.
- Explore modern Egyptian art at Mashrabia Gallery or Access Art Space.
- Evening: walk across the Nile bridges, pass the Cairo Opera House, and enjoy the city view.
Day 4 – Islamic Cairo (and Coptic Cairo nearby)
- Visit medieval mosques:
- Muhammad Ali Mosque (Citadel).
- Al-Azhar, Al-Hakim, and others on Al-Muizz Street.
- Ibn Tulin, one of the oldest mosques ever built
- Dress conservatively, bring a scarf (women), and take off your shoes when entering.
- Wander through Khan el-Khalili market – haggle hard, have tea with shopkeepers.
- Optional: nearby Hanging Church (Coptic) and synagogue.
Day 5 – Alexandria (Day Trip)
- 2 hours each way by car/Uber.
- See:
- Fort Qaitbay (site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria).
- Catacombs of Kom el-Shoqafa (Greco-Roman tombs).
- Mediterranean seaside promenades and fish restaurants (like Zephyreon).
- Optional upscale stop: Ain Sokhna resort beaches.
Day 6 – Saqqara & Dahshur
- Explore the pyramid fields south of Cairo:
- Step Pyramid of Djoser (first pyramid ever built).
- Bent Pyramid and Red Pyramid (architectural experiments).
- Highlights:
- Tomb of the Two Brothers (same-sex couple buried together, 4,000+ years ago).
- The surreal Serapeum – underground labyrinth of giant sarcophagi for sacred bulls.
- Less crowded, highly atmospheric.
Day 7 – Grand Egyptian Museum or Fayoum Oasis
- Option A: Spend the day at the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) (when open).
- Home to the full Tutankhamun collection and treasures never before displayed.
- Huge, modern, climate-controlled, with pyramid views.
- Option B: Day trip to Fayoum Oasis:
- Visit Tunis village for pottery workshops.
- Side trip to Wadi al-Hitan (Valley of the Whales) – UNESCO site with fossilized whale skeletons in the desert.
Other Add-Ons / Notes
- New Cairo & Mokattam Hills: nightlife, clubs, cliffside views, modern scene.
- Best seasons: Oct–Nov or Feb–Mar (avoid July–Aug heat).
- Check out the brand new National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, housing 22 mummies in Old Cairo
- Logistics: use Uber, never rent a car; carry small bills for baksheesh (tipping); get your e-visa online in advance.
This gives travelers a week in Cairo that mixes ancient history, modern culture, art, food, and even day trips for variety.
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Show Notes
Neil Laird
Prime Time Travelers (Jared Plummer vs. the Ancient World): A Whimsical Romantic MM Portal Fantasy
Cairo
Zamalek
Fair Trade Egypt
Nomad Gallery
Houseboat65
Villa Belle Époque
Five Bells Restaurant
Giza
Giza Solar boat museum
Grand Egyptian Museum
Café Riche
Naguib Mahfouz
Cairo Trilogy by Naguib Mahfouz
AUC Bookstores
Mashrabia Gallery
Access Art Space
Muhammad Ali Mosque
Khan el-Khalili
Al-Azhar Mosque
Al-Mu’izz Street
Al-Hakim Mosque
Alexandria
Citadel of Qaitbay
Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa
Ain Sokhna
Zephyrion Fish Restaurant
Saqqara
Tomb of Two Brothers
Serapeum of Saqqara
Faiyum Oasis
Wadi al Hitan (Wadi of the Whales)
Hanging Church
Dahshur
Community
Hadrian’s Wall Walking in Northern England – Episode 742
Hi Chris,
Just wanted to let you know that, inspired by Episode 742, I walked across England along Hadrian’s Wall in late July. Highly recommended if you get the chance.
I just re-listened to the episode, and I agree with most everything your guest said. My one nitpick would be that she undersold Carlisle. It may be my lack of experience with European travel, but both the castle and cathedral were well worth visiting, and the city itself seemed to be on the rise.
I did not take your advice and walked from east to west. I did enjoy that, as the least interesting part was at the beginning, walking through New Castle.
Despite mostly good weather, my decision did lead to dealing with some horizontal rain and trying to walk into 60 MPH headwinds.
All in all, a great trip, and I hope you get to try it. I used Mac’s Adventures to handle bookings and portage of my luggage.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Todd
