Imagine an island where cocoa pods dangle like jewels in the shade of rainforest trees, waves crash against volcanic shores, and time slows to the rhythm of the tropics.
São Tomé and Príncipe Flag/Aerra Carnicom/Wikimedia Commons
This is São Tomé, the larger of two islands in the Gulf of Guinea, floating just off the west coast of Africa. Once the world’s top cocoa producer, São Tomé is finding new life through sustainable cocoa farming and low-impact tourism.
Today, travellers come not only for its beaches and warm hospitality but also to walk through the same roças (plantations) that once powered its colonial economy and are now being transformed into symbols of heritage and hope.
The cocoa legacy: From rocas to revival
Sao Tome cocoa pods/Chuck Moravec/Wikimedia Commons
A taste of history
São Tomé’s story begins with Portuguese settlers who introduced cocoa in the 19th century. The island’s rich volcanic soil and humid climate created ideal conditions for cultivation. For decades, cocoa was king, and vast plantation estates—known as rocas—spread across the landscape.
Over time, independence and shifting markets led to decline, but today, many of these historic roças are being restored. The island’s distinctive Amelonado cocoa variety has earned global recognition for its complex, fruity flavour. Visitors can wander through plantations where cocoa trees grow alongside banana, breadfruit and palm, an agroforestry system that sustains both biodiversity and local livelihoods.
Chocolate with a conscience
Roça São João/Ji-Elle/Wikimedia Commons
Modern-day cocoa production in São Tomé focuses on sustainability. Cooperative groups such as CECAB (Centrale Cacaoyère des Producteurs Agricoles de São Tomé et Príncipe) work with thousands of small farmers to ensure fair prices and environmentally friendly practices. International initiatives, supported by the FAO, help farmers maintain soil health and preserve the island’s lush forests.
Travellers can visit estates like Roça Agostinho Neto or Roça São João, where they can witness the cocoa journey from pod to bar, sample handmade chocolates, and even stay overnight in restored plantation houses. It is a sensory experience: the earthy scent of fermenting beans, the snap of a freshly tempered bar, and the taste of São Tomé’s tropical terroir.
Beach eco-lodges: Where rainforest meets the sea
A tropical balance
After exploring the cocoa trails inland, most visitors head south to the beaches. Here, the rainforest tumbles into the sea, and life slows to the easy rhythm of island time. Praia Inhame Eco Lodge, at the southern tip of São Tomé, captures this balance perfectly.
Wooden chalets overlook a crescent of black volcanic sand. Solar power keeps lights glowing softly at night, and the restaurant serves freshly caught fish and tropical fruit. The lodge’s design blends with nature rather than competing with it. From your veranda, you might spot sea turtles nesting or hear parrots in the canopy above.
Praia Inhame is also a gateway to adventure. From here, travellers can take a short boat trip to the islet of Rolas, said to lie directly on the equator. The area is ideal for snorkelling, kayaking, and coastal walks through pristine forest.
More hidden gems
For those who want to extend their stay, other eco-lodges on São Tomé and neighbouring Príncipe offer equally peaceful escapes. On Príncipe, Sundy Praia Lodge combines luxury with conservation, using local materials and employing island residents. These lodges are part of a growing movement to keep tourism small-scale, sustainable, and community-driven.
Cocoa and coast: Travel with purpose
São Tomé may be small, but its blend of culture, history, and natural beauty makes it one of Africa’s most rewarding destinations. Travellers who visit help support projects that protect the island’s forests and revive its agricultural heritage. Buying locally made chocolate, hiring local guides, and choosing eco-friendly accommodation all contribute to a positive impact.
The best time to visit São Tomé and Príncipe is during the dry seasons, from December to February and June to September, though the island’s warm climate makes it a year-round escape. Portuguese is the official language, but English is increasingly spoken in hotels and lodges. Most visitors fly via Lisbon, but connections through African hubs like Accra or Luanda are growing.
São Tomé is proof that travel can be both delicious and meaningful, offering a chance to savour Africa’s chocolate island one bite and one wave at a time.
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