Hear about travel to Tunis, Tunisia, as the Amateur Traveler talks to Jeff Ohlfs about his recent visit to this arid Arab country in North Africa.
Why should you go to Tunis?
Jeff says, “I don’t think a lot of people think too much about traveling to Tunisia. It’s an incredible country, friendly people. It’s an Arab country. And all that goes with it, and it’s reasonably inexpensive, and it’s just right there off the boot of Italy.”
Day 1: Arrive in Tunis and Get Oriented
Jeff recommends staying in Tunis rather than hopping between towns. He favors small, characterful places over large international chains, with guesthouses such as Dar Ennassim in La Marsa as an example of the kind of atmosphere he enjoys. Spend your first afternoon getting your bearings:
- Walk along Habib Bourguiba Avenue to see modern Tunis and its French colonial legacy.
- Notice how the newer city contrasts with the historic core.
For dinner, Jeff suggests starting with straightforward Tunisian cuisine at a casual local restaurant rather than seeking out something upscale.
Day 2: Medina of Tunis and the Bardo
Jeff strongly encourages beginning your exploration in the Medina of Tunis to understand the city’s history and rhythm. Highlights include:
- Entering through Bab el Bhar, the symbolic divide between old and new Tunis.
- Wandering the souks with no fixed agenda, observing daily life.
- Looking for traditional crafts such as the chechia, the distinctive felt hat still made locally.
In the afternoon, visit the Bardo National Museum:
- Jeff calls this an essential stop.
- Focus especially on the Roman mosaics, which are considered among the finest anywhere.
- The museum provides crucial historical context before visiting Carthage.
- Tunisia’s Phoenician past, including a discussion of whether Phoenicians had reached the Caribbean.
For Lunch, Jeff recommends a casual local restaurant such as Dar Ellama Restaurant.
Day 3: Carthage and Sidi Bou Said
Jeff treats Carthage and Sidi Bou Said as a single, full day. In Carthage, he stresses that the site is spread out and should be approached as a series of related locations:
- The Carthage Punic Ports, to understand Carthage’s naval power.
- The Carthage tophet, dedicated to the Phoenician deities Tanit and Baal
- The Acropolium of Carthage, tied to later Christian history and associated with Louis IX of France.
- Views toward the Carthage Palace, showing how modern Tunisia overlaps with ancient ground.
- The Zaghouan Aqueduct, which once supplied water to Carthage, demonstrates Roman engineering on a massive scale.
He also recommends the North Africa American Cemetery and Memorial for travelers interested in World War II history. In the afternoon, continue to Sidi Bou Said:
- Walk slowly through the village and enjoy the blue-and-white architecture.
- Visit Dar El Annabi to see a traditional house and learn about local customs.
For lunch, Jeff leans toward informal spots that reflect everyday food culture, such as places in the spirit of Casse-croûte — Tunisian Table.
Day 4: Roman-Era Day Trip
Jeff suggests adding at least one major Roman site beyond Tunis.
- Visit the Amphitheatre of El Jem, which he ranks among the most impressive Roman ruins in North Africa.
The destination works well as a long day trip with a driver or guided tour, such as those arranged through Tours By Locals.
Themes Jeff Emphasizes Throughout
Across the itinerary, Jeff returns to several broader ideas:
- Every day, cultural details, from food culture like Hindi or “Sultan of all Fruits” (prickly pear cactus fruit)
- Nature escapes close to the city, including Boukornine National Park.
Sponsors

Upgrade your wardrobe with high-quality essentials and get free shipping and 365-day returns at Quince.com/TRAVELER.

Save 50% on Unlimited premium wireless plans starting at $15/month at MintMobile.com/traveler.
Track spending and manage subscriptions with Rocket Money at RocketMoney.com/TRAVELER.
subscribe: rss feed | Apple podcasts ![]()
right click here to download (mp3)
Show Notes
Tunis
Guided Tours by ToursByLocals
Maison d’Hôtes Dar Ennassim, La Marsa
Carthage
Acropolium of Carthage
Louis IX of France
Carthage Punic Ports
Carthage tophet
Zaghouan Aqueduct
Carthage Palace
North Africa American Cemetery and Memorial
Sidi Bou Said
Dar El Annabi – Atlas Obscura
Bardo National Museum
Chemtou
Theory of Phoenician discovery of the Americas
Medina of Tunis
Chechia
Restaurant Ellema
Habib Bourguiba
Opuntia ficus-indica
Casse-croûte — Our Tunisian Table
Bab el Bhar
Amphitheatre of El Jem
Boukornine National Park
Tunisian cuisine
Sousse
Community
Give me your feedback on the show at AmateurTraveler.com/1000
Amateur Traveler Trips
