Mpumalanga’s forgotten towns and the beauty of the open grasslands

Mpumalanga is often associated with blockbuster road trips and safari escapes.

Travellers stream through the province en route to the Panorama Route, Kruger National Park and Blyde River Canyon, rarely slowing down for the quieter places scattered across its highveld grasslands. Yet beyond the headline attractions lies another side of Mpumalanga.

Towns like Delmas, Breyten, Wakkerstroom, Amersfoort and Volksrust are not usually at the top of bucket lists. Some travellers pass through without stopping. Others know them only as fuel stations along the highway. But each town carries traces of a busy past shaped by coal, agriculture, railways and trade.

Delmas: the farming town between cities

Positioned between Johannesburg and Emalahleni, Delmas has long been tied to agriculture and mining. The town grew around maize farming and later benefited from nearby coal activity. It became an important stop for freight and farming communities moving across the highveld. At first glance, Delmas feels functional rather than scenic. Grain silos dominate the skyline and trucks rumble steadily through town. Yet there is something compelling about its surrounding landscapes. Open fields stretch toward the horizon, particularly beautiful in summer when thunderclouds gather dramatically over the plains.

Those willing to slow down will discover roadside farm stalls, quiet back roads and pockets of birdlife thriving in wetlands outside town. Delmas reflects a side of Mpumalanga often overlooked: the working countryside that continues to feed and power much of South Africa.

Breyten: where art meets the grasslands

Further southeast lies Breyten, a small town surrounded by rolling grasslands and distant hills. Once sustained largely by farming, the town has gradually developed a creative identity that contrasts with its isolated setting. Breyten is perhaps best known as the hometown of poet and artist Breyten Breytenbach. In recent years, artists and creatives have helped breathe new life into the town through galleries, murals and community projects. Despite these changes, Breyten remains deeply connected to the landscape around it. The roads leading into town cut through vast stretches of grassveld where wind bends through tall grasses and abandoned farm structures stand weathered against the sky. There is not a packed itinerary waiting for visitors here. That is precisely the appeal.

Wakkerstroom: South Africa’s quiet birding capital

Of all Mpumalanga’s lesser-known towns, Wakkerstroom may be the one most quietly celebrated by those who know it well. Nestled near the border of KwaZulu-Natal, the town has transformed from a declining agricultural settlement into one of South Africa’s premier birding destinations. The surrounding wetlands and grasslands attract birders from around the world. Rare species such as the Rudd’s lark and Botha’s lark can be spotted in the area, while the wetlands teem with life after summer rains. Yet Wakkerstroom’s appeal goes beyond birdwatching. The town itself feels suspended in time, with historic buildings, small guesthouses and dirt roads contributing to its old-world atmosphere. Misty early mornings make it feel almost cinematic. Nature has become Wakkerstroom’s new industry. Where economic activity once revolved around farming and trade routes, conservation and slow tourism now sustain much of the town’s identity.

Amersfoort: history on the highveld

Amersfoort is another town many motorists simply drive past. Historically, it served as an important agricultural centre and transport link between Mpumalanga and KwaZulu-Natal. Today, it is markedly quieter. The surrounding grasslands are among the town’s greatest assets. These open ecosystems support biodiversity that is often overshadowed by South Africa’s more famous bushveld reserves. Blue cranes, secretary birds and antelope can still be found across the region. Amersfoort also carries reminders of South Africa’s layered history. Old churches, cemeteries and sandstone buildings speak to generations who built lives here through farming and trade. While the pace of economic growth has slowed, the landscapes surrounding the town remain strikingly intact.

Volksrust: the frontier town fading into the hills

Near the KZN border, Volksrust once played an important role as a railway and transport hub. Freight trains and trade routes helped shape the town’s economy, while nearby industries supported local livelihoods for decades. Today, parts of Volksrust still feel frozen in that era. Old railway infrastructure still cuts through the town and many historic buildings remain standing, even as businesses have shifted or closed over time. Yet the surrounding landscapes remain beautiful. The nearby grasslands are rich in birdlife and often blanketed in wildflowers after seasonal rains.

Rediscovering the spaces in between

There are no major theme parks or tightly packed attraction lists. Instead, the reward lies in observation. It is found in empty roads, weathered buildings, distant thunderclouds and conversations with locals who have watched these places evolve over generations. For those willing to leave the main routes behind, these grassland towns offer something increasingly valuable: room to breathe.

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