Can this sexy steakhouse stand out in Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab’s extensive culinary line-up?
Does Dubai have a really great high-end steakhouse? It’s something I think to myself as I pull up at Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab. The hotel – and its near dozen restaurants – are only six weeks into operation when we find ourselves heading to The Cullinan. But word has spread fast, and even though we’re here for an early reservation, the dining room fills up quickly. Sure, in part, it can be credited to this being one of the newest tables in town. But I also suspect others also welcome the arrival of a glamourous steakhouse to Dubai’s well-populated dining scene.
The interiors are deliciously Art Deco. Think smooth white and grey marble, a monochrome tiled terrace, mirrored ceilings, and plenty of gold accents. If there was any doubt beforehand that this restaurant was a steakhouse, it melts away upon arrival, where grand meat display refrigerators, stocked with premium cuts, welcome guests. The dining room is expansive, but cleverly designed so it’s still got soul. An open kitchen runs down one side, chefs bustling away at stations, while the other side opens out onto a long alfresco terrace that perfectly frames the Burj Al Arab for instant wow-factor.
The Cullinan has a big focus on meat, but there’s also seafood options across the starters, a page of salads, and a selection of mains that aren’t steak for those not here to sample the premium cuts. The two pages of steaks might be overwhelming, but our friendly server is on hand to make expert recommendations and answer all our questions with a knowledge and passion that impresses.
To start, we’re told we have to try the steak tartare mille-feuille (Dhs118, pictured above), and we’re very glad we do. It arrives as a beautifully plated ring of diced beef tenderloin topped with truffle caviar, cucumber pearls and gold leaf (this is Dubai, after all), with a creamy demi-glace poured into the middle. The flavours are powerful but balanced, and it’s exceptionally good. The wood-fired prawns (Dhs95) are meaty but a little dry, despite the plate being dotted with a basil cream and yellow capsicum gel. Our steaks arrive, and the 300-day grain-fed Black Market ribeye I order (Dhs380) is near perfection. Each bite melts in the mouth, it’s cooked just as I like it, and when dipped in a side of chimichurri (Dhs30), it creates the perfect pairing. You’ll need to order sides too, and the garlic butter spinach (Dhs45) is one we’d order over and over again.
For dessert, we like the look of almost all of them, but the white chocolate soufflé (Dhs85) is the ideally indulgent end to a meal that hits almost all the high notes.
With a great soundtrack, sophisticated ambience, and a buzzy vibe that makes you want to keep the evening going at the bar after dinner, The Cullinan makes a solid case for one of Dubai’s best new restaurants.
Verdict: This is a sleek date night spot worth splashing out on.
The Cullinan, Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, daily 12pm to 2am. Tel: (0)4 570 4551. @thecullinan.dubai
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