First things first: Stellenbosch has got wine and food, and activities to get your heart pumping and galleries to soothe your soul.
Second things second: it is known as Eikestad because of the many oak trees planted by its founder, Simon van der Stel.
The historic town sits among hills and vineyards and is surrounded by significant-magnificent mountains: Stellenbosch Mountain, Jonkershoek, Simonsberg and Botmanskop. And you probably know it best as the seat of Cabernet Sauvignon in South Africa.
This is true, but it’s also known for its Chenin Blanc. There are more than 200 wine farms in Stellenbosch, of which 126 are members of Stellenbosch Wine Routes.
Start with Breakfast and Then Walk
As with everything, Stellenbosch has coffee shops and cute places to grab breakfast in spades. Too many to mention here, so we set off after coffee and a croissant at our guest house.
The best way to orient yourself and really get into the bones of a place is to walk its streets. After breakfast, drop in at the Tourist Information Centre at 47 Church Street and pick up a map. We recommend a walk down Dorp Street and around the historic town centre.
Wine Town
And it’s off to Cavalli Estate, with 26 ha under vine and 10 ha under indigenous flora. There’s a helipad here, too, and the estate works with Cape Town Helicopters to fly people in from Cape Town for wine tours.
There are two tasting lounges, and a collection of memorabilia, such as Schumacher’s helmet and guitars signed by The Rolling Stones, U2 and Duran Duran. In the gallery next door, there are two rooms of sports collectables.
The gallery collection is a mix of old and contemporary art, with established and young up-and-coming artists. The curator is Amy Eveleigh.
Settle in at the Tasting Terrace and sign up for the sorbet and wine pairing – CC with an apple-and-pear lolly; Chenin Blanc with a lemon-and-thyme lolly; Chardonnay with a sage-and-vanilla lolly; Shiraz with a plum-and-rosemary lolly.
You can also book a picnic on the grass and for the First Friday sunset sessions when live music accompanies your sundowners – you can order a platter or dine at the restaurant under Executive Chef Lucas Carstens. There is an à la carte and a chef’s menu.
Blaauwklippen is the second-oldest wine farm in South Africa. Its wine pairings are pizza, chocolate, macaron and cheesecake. But begin with a brandy or gin cocktail, each prettied with flowers and fruit frozen in the ice blocks.
There is also a pump track and the estate hosts various markets.
On the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain, L’Avenir specialises in South Africa’s emblematic varietals: Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. It’s owned by the French leader of terroir wines, AdVini, and its wines are sought-after locally and abroad.
Among these are a splendid Single Block Pinotage from a block of 35-year-old vines and a Single Block Chenin Blanc from a block of 51-year-old vines. We suggest the good old-fashioned cheese and wine pairing. Perfect.
Grab Some Grub
There are some of the finest dining options in the country – think Mill Street Bistro, Dusk Restaurant, Post and Pepper, The Table at De Meye, Vuur… the list goes on. But there are also loads of casual eateries, such as De Vrije Burger, Spier Farm Café, Casa Cerveza. Again, the list goes on.
And most wine farms have restaurants, so it’s difficult to separate wine from food. That said, there are plenty of fine dining establishments and casual eateries in town, too.
At Warwick Wine Estate, the Posh Picnic Pods are all about fine wine and fine-dining-style picnics in a serene, tucked-away setting. You can also go on a vineyard safari, with bubbles to ease the journey.
The Stellenbosch Reserve has a beautiful restaurant fringed by trees and looking out toward the mountains. The food is delicious and you won’t go hungry, the menu ranges from lamb ribs to aubergine melanzane and pizzas, and the salads are splendid.
Geuwels and Clara’s Barn, in the oldest barn in the Western Cape, are the two restaurants at Vergenoegd Löw. They fall under the ever-expanding umbrella of Chef Bertus Basson. Chef Drikus Brink is in the kitchen.
You can also watch the working flock of 1 000 Indian runner ducks on their way to the vineyards, where they keep the farm pest-free, naturally. A walking trail, a herb garden and a children’s playground are also offered.
At Hartenberg Wine Estate, lunch is served in the courtyard garden and the tasting room. While you’re eating, the children can happily – and safely – play in the picnic gardens. It’s all about regenerative farming here, and the estate has indigenous plants and wildlife, including more than 85 recorded bird species, duikers, steenbok and mongooses. There are also goats, sheep and Nguni cattle.
Get Around
The Stellenbosch Vine Hopper is a hop-on, hop-off bus. There are three wine tour routes (Northern, Southern and Eastern), each visiting five to six very different estates.
The Wine Tractor tootles around the Helderberg area. It also has three routes that take you along the back roads, through the vineyards, past the Nguni cattle and blue cranes. There are also activities for children.
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Put On Your Walking Shoes
Stellenbosch Wine Walks has a leisurely 12 km wine walk starting at Ida’s Valley Nature Reserve, heading to Thelema for wine tasting and ending at Le Pommier for tasting and lunch.
The 8.5 km Blouklip Trail starts at Blaauwklippen and winds through winelands and natural habitats with expert guides. It takes you to Dornier’s modern art-inspired tasting area, for bagels and wines, and to Stellenzicht Wine Pod for a wine and chocolate pairing.
Nightlife
Two evenings a month, a section of Drostdy Street is closed for the Stellenbosch Street Soirées. Wine estates set up tasting stations and there is live music and food. Some fun is definitely had here. But you need to book. There is only one soirée in December, on the 11th; the next is on 29 January 2025.
When the farms close for the evening, it’s time for the town’s wine bars. Among these are De Warenmarkt, Le Grand Domaine Enoteca, Stellenbosch Wine Bar, Beyerskloof Wynbar and Spek & Bone, under the oldest fruit-producing vine in Stellenbosch.
The Wine Glass – Stellenbosch offers more than 130 wines by the glass, by the bottle or simply in a tasting flight of six.
Things to Do
Dine with a local through Township and Village, which gives community experiences led by local guides. Leaders, non-profit representatives and local entrepreneurs share stories about what it’s like to live, work and play in the communities surrounding Stellenbosch.
Explore Xhosa culture and eat at Nocawe Piedt in the Kayamandi township.
Savour a bountiful three-course meal at the home of Alenor Pietersen in Pniel, and at Kylemore, Siena Charles presents a three-course meal.
Art at Heart
Galleries include SMAC, the Rupert Museum and the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden. Then there are the wine farms with galleries.
The Stellenbosch Art Mile is a 1.6 km long amble on the banks of the Eerste River. It’s a public art space where everyone can reflect, connect with nature and engage with art. It crosses six bridges over the river, stretching from the pedestrian bridge on Krige Street at Markotter to the Coetzenburg bridge.
The current exhibition features more than 20 artworks and installations, starting with Dané Erwee’s Guardian Of Oaks, 2024, a playful squirrel, and ending with Edoardo Daniele Villa’s Green Sentinel, 2001.
The theme this year is Tapestry of Time, and the exhibition runs until September 2025. The art is aimed at all ages, and the walk is wheelchair accessible.
There is an outdoor classroom that attracts schoolchildren, with teachers sometimes taking lessons there. It is also a space for music events, poetry reading, or simply as a soap box. It can be used for whatever, whenever you want.
Take the Children
A place full of wonders for children: Wonderdal at Hazendal. It combines advanced technological elements with creatively designed spaces to teach children topics from their school curriculum such as energy, nutrition and life skills. It’s interactive and aims to boost imagination, creativity and curiosity. There are trained supervisors on-site.
At Le Grand Jardin, there’s a secret hideaway with tree walks, a zipline across the dam, a wigwam/teepee tent to fuel their imagination, tortoises, dogs, and pizzas.
Lay Down Your Head
Book in at Bonne Esperance Guest House, a grand Victorian villa in a landscaped English garden. It’s just 500 m from the town centre and Stellenbosch University. There are also studio apartments. All the rooms are comfortable and well-appointed.
Nearby Middedorp Manor is a 100-year-old Victorian house with three en-suite bedrooms, outdoor entertainment spaces and a pool. It also has apartments.
This article was written by Lorraine Kearney for Getaway’s December 2024 print edition. Find us on shelves for more!
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